Seafood from Iceland and NFFF spreading the word!

One of the major awards at this year’s National Fish & Chip Awards was for the Top Restaurant of the Year, this was won by Charlotte and Kevin Mitchell of Knights of Glastonbury as part of the award, the finalists were invited by the Award sponsors, Seafood from Iceland, to visit Iceland on an educational tour to experience the Icelandic fishing industry.

The tour took place at the end of May and was admirably organised and led by Björgvin Þór Björgvinsson of Seafood from Iceland/Business Iceland, supported by Alisa Catherine Silveira. The group also consisted of Andrew Crook, President of the NFFF and organisers of the Annual Fish & Chip Awards, John Lavery of Fish City, Belfast (previous winner), Catherine Anne Authers, representing Noah’s of Bristol, Mary Aitken and Gavin Nicholl of Fish Focus and John Michael Holland of World Fishing/The Advocate/ Seafood Source.

Iceland is the remote North Atlantic island with a proud history and dependence on fishing, and many people nowadays either are uneducated and unaware, or forget, the “Exclusion Zone Cod Wars” of the 1950’s, 60’s and 70’s . Over decades, this pitted the UK and Royal Navy as well as other European countries against the Icelandic fishing fleet, driving Icelandic fishing to develop Trade Links with Russia as their major market until the USA stepped in to end the dispute and to protect NATO, and since then, the UK and Europe have developed its mutually beneficial trading relationships for the high-quality, cold water fish that are caught in the bountiful waters surrounding Iceland with cod being the leading species in the catches.

Even the Icelandic currency, which features a cod, illuminates its commitment to sustaining its fish populations, and how important this resource is to them. Icelandic fishing sustainability is so important, people in Iceland will choose and enjoy many fish species that aren’t yet known or demanded in other markets – this is partly because the export of valuable fish, like cod, is an important pillar to the Icelandic economy, but also because some of these less-known species are absolutely delicious! We got to find that out on this trip!

However, the traditional Herring fishing industry finally collapsed through over-fishing at the end of the 1960’s, and the industry needed to re-group and focus on the Cod and Haddock stocks, but to avoid this disaster happening again, a sustainable attitude to fishing was required. At that time, there was little control over the number of boats maximising their own catches. A major change was needed, and we were the lucky ones chosen to see these changes in action.

Flying into Reykjavik, we checked in at our hotel right on the harbour and were given a couple of hours to explore the harbour and local area. There was no doubt that Iceland is a proud fishing country with the two trawlers undergoing a refit right in front of the hotel.

Wandering around the harbour there are many reminders of the traditional industry with statues, display boards and even a railway locomotive!We were in for a real treat over the next 4 days. Contrary to some peoples’ beliefs, Icelandic food is not all about fermented shark, sheep’s head and puffin! We were about to taste the best of Iceland!

The group gathered for a “Welcome Meal” at the Fish Company restaurant, which was a taste of things to come. It was clear from the outset that the group were going to get on famously.

We started with an unbelievable Lobster Soup featuring Langoustine, Chestnut and Cardamom. So good that I think the recipe is now doing the rounds with fish chefs around the UK! This was followed by a dish of Cod with honey, dulse and chives. The Fish Company has been voted the best Fish restaurant in Reykjavik for the last 15 years running and it is clear to see why!

The next morning, the group visited Brim, a major fishing company in Reykjavik. With an intriguing presentation about the history of Icelandic fishing, the company and a full tour of the 67-meter Vigri Fishing vessel with 1st Mate, Gestur Kristinnsson, we got the opportunity to understand the workings of the bridge, the fish processing deck and the on-board storage area..

Brim are all about wild caught fish employing a modern fleet of fishing vessels and  state of the art facilities. The well-trained fishermen are experts in mastering the wild waves and ice-cold waters , working hard to bring in the amazing Atlantic cod, haddock, saithe, and other valuable species from the 200 miles of the North Atlantic Ocean surrounding Iceland. It was good to know that some of the group are currently serving Brim-caught fish in their shops.

Lunch was served at Fish and Chips Vagninn, a finalist in the Best Overseas fish & chip business of the year. The battered cod served was straight from the owner’s fishing boat moored along the quay. So tasty and fresh with a great  selection of sauces!

In case we were still hungry, next door was Valdis, famous for traditional Icelandic Gelato Ice Cream. Yummy!

Back to work and the group visited Iceland Ocean Cluster. One of the primary objectives as a cluster and incubator is to connect people, whether to foster the creation of innovative ideas or to help those ideas reach their full potential. This is fundamental in developing the industry and creating opportunities for Icelanders. You can read more about the work of Ocean Cluster in our October/November issue.

The 100% Fish mission is gaining further traction as a major part of the “Hope in the Water” series on PBS in the USA.

Leaving Reykjavik, we travelled north to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula for the next part of our adventure. The journey took in the 5,770-meter Hvalfjörður Tunnel which opened on the western end of Reykjavík in 1998 , shortening the Ring Road by 42 kilometres with an underwater pass.

After a short “coffee and cake break” at Borgarnes, we continued to the northern shores of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula before continuing to Stykkishólmur for a short

hike onto the harbour rocks followed by a boat trip out to see wildlife and for some sea angling. Stykkishólmur is sometimes called the “Town of a thousand islands” and it was easy to see why.

Andrew Crooks proved to be prolific with the long line catching some very impressive cod.

Dinner followed at Sjávarpakkhúsið, a traditional Icelandic restaurant on the harbour where the philosophy of using local ingredients and sustainability, always endeavouring to prepare high-quality food with as little impact on the environment as possible. Delicious Cod Cheeks were the starter followed by Atlantic Wolffish! Served with celeriac puree, horseradish cream and lumpfish roe. This fish would never win a beauty contest, but it tasted so good!

Following dessert,we moved on towards the Adventure Hotel in Hellissandur for the night, stopping to admire the glorious scenery with the waterfalls at Kirkjufell (our header picture on page 18). The mountain is seen as one of the most beautiful in Iceland and attracts many tourists and photographers.

It’s great that at this time of the year is that it doesn’t really get dark, so sightseeing is possible almost 24 hours per day!

After good nights sleep we set out to explore Hellissandur and it didn’t disappoint. Bjorgvin spent a lot of his early years here and so we had the BEST guide possible. The hotel stands in the shadow of Snæfellsjökull, a glacier-capped volcano, in the National Park of  the same name, one of the only three National Parks in the country. As if on Bjorgvin’s command, the clouds disappeared, and the glacier appeared for us all to see!

First, we visited the local Maritime museum which charts the history of the fishing industry in the area, then on to meet two local fishermen. These were Aron Baldursson, Captain of the vessel Rifsari SH 70, and Ludvik Ver Smarason, owner of the boat Kari 111 SH 219, who runs the coffee house Gilbakki with his partner, Anna Thora Bodvarsdottir. We were treated to scrumptious hot chocolate, coffee and traditional pancakes. So friendly and some of the best coffee! Andrew Crooks amused everyone with his exploits with the pressurised whipped cream machine! From here, we moved on to the National Park Visitor Centre for a short presentation on the features and wildlife of the peninsula and a lunch of delicious Ling, followed by a walk to the local football pitch which was the brain child of Vidar Gylfason, who developed a regulation soccer pitch in the lava field. 25 years later. The story of this is told in the film “The Home Game” which has won many awards and can be watched on IMDb TV.

We then boarded our minibus and journeyed on to yet another amazing experience.

Fishermen’s Day

The trip was planned so that we could all experience Iceland’s annual Fishermen’s Day Celebration (“Sjómannadagurinn” in Icelandic) and Festival of the Sea was be held on Sunday, June 2, 2024.

Fishermen’s Day was first celebrated in Reykjavík and Ísafjörður in 1938 when Icelanders decided to honour those working in the fishing industry. Local ships would return to the harbour and tie up to the docks so seafarers could have the day off to be with their families. Today, Icelanders across the country celebrate the day, and it is a reminder of the bounty and the dangers for those working the waters of the North Atlantic. The revelry often includes boat rides, fishing vessels and factory tours, speeches, dances, family-friendly games, and plenty of food—and not just seafood. Each harbour has its traditions, and we were fortunate to be part of the celebrations in Rif on the northern shore of the  Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

As well, as adult and child’s Tug-of-War, other contests included local crewmen in teams of 2, donning survival suits, spinning round so they were giddy, stacking fish boxes, having a 2-man wheelbarrow race, and diving into insulated 400 litre ice storage boxes. One team member had to retrieve a bottle of Coca Cola, and the other, a bottle opener. Having drunk the whole bottle of very cold fizzing coke, they then had to wind twine onto a Net Needle with very cold hands. Finally, a race back to the Start/Finish line.

A game only for the hardy fishermen of Iceland! And great fun for all of the spectators.

We were fortunate to meet up with Rabbi, a 74-year-old Captain of his boat, Katrin, who was the “main man” organising these games. Rabbi has the largest hands I have ever seen – like a massive bunch of bananas or something out of Icelandic legend. Obviously great for catching fish!

As well as being invited to walk round a local fish processing plant, everyone was treated to a warming cup of fish soup and a mixture of cooked minced cod, onion and breadcrumbs served on delicious Icelandic sweet rye bread. The children were given sweets and despite the cold, we were all offered ice creams!

In the evening, we were invited by the fishing company Sjavaridjan to attend the Fishermen’s Dinner in nearby Olafsvik. Locals, boat owners, family, friends and crew dressed in their finery to celebrate the day, with a running buffet, entertainment, prizes and dancing way into the night. Definitely a never-to-be-forgotten experience even if you didn’t speak Icelandic. In many ways, it reminded me of the Scottish Fish & Chip awards dinner where the old and young of the community got together and celebrated. It was still not dark when we left at midnight and the party was still in full swing.

Day 4, and we set out on our minibus into the  Snæfellsjökull National Park was established in 2001, and it covers about 170 km2 of the westmost tip of the Snæfellsnes peninsula. The park is named after the beautifully shaped and infamous stratovolcano and glacier Snæfellsjökull, the crown of the national park.

This gave us the opportunity to experience the “off-road” driving skills of our “rally driver” on the crushed-lava roads visiting Svörtuloft and lighthouse and the black sands of the legendary Djúpalón beach on route to lunch at Samkomuhusid in Arnarstapi. On the journey, we got to witness the magnificent scenery of the peninsula. Arriving in the sunshine at we took a refreshing walk to view the harbour and surroundings before sitting down in Samkomuhusid, a traditional Icelandic restaurant in the former community house food made from local ingredients. This also acts as a small museum, gift shop and tourist information centre. Lunch was a traditional hearty Lamb Soup followed by Pancakes filled with Blackberry Jam – so very tasty. Back on the minibus, our journey along the southern cost of the peninsula continued and we took the south-side scenic route around the Hvalfjörður (“Whale fjord”) to the Hvammsvik Hot Springs, a series of geothermal pools leading to the crystal, clear (and cool at 6OC!) fjord. Some of us were brave enough the test all of the pools (the top one was 44OC) for a couple of hours before finally continuing our journey back to Reykjavik and on to the airport for a final group dinner and an early night for the 6.40am flight back to the UK. This was an unbelievable trip, organised with “Kuoni-esque” style and detail by Bjorgvin and the team from Seafood from Iceland and Business Iceland.

If you own a fish & chip restaurant that you are proud of in the UK, why not enter the National Fish & Chip Awards now as you could be a lucky one who gets to enjoy such inspirational rewards.

A final quote from Charlotte and Kevin, owners of Knights Fish Restaurant, “We were amazed to win the award and the trip to Iceland. Bjorgvin and Ailsa arranged a fabulous itinerary which packed so much in. The trip was informative, especially learning of the focus with the fishing industry on sustainability. The people were so friendly and the country beautiful”.

I echo this completely and thank you, Business Iceland and Seafood from Iceland, for letting me be part of it.

Athol